Welcome to
Transnistria, a self-proclaimed state in a Soviet time-warp on the edge
of Moldova; to Somaliland, struggling for independence and international
recognition, where a doctor doubles as the foreign minister; to
Nagorno-Karabakh, whose borders are lined with Armenian snipers as Azeri
refugees vow to reclaim their land.
These destinations feature
in the latest series of the BBC's Holidays in the Danger Zone,
programmes described as "current-affairs travelogues" where gunmen and
poverty are recurring themes. They may not be high on many tourist
itineraries, but Reeve says many of these places can - perhaps should -
be visited.
"Up until recently, going to Peru and Thailand was
exotic, on the edge of exploration - now you go there on your gap year
as an 18-year-old, and there's a Boots on Ko Samui. So if you want to
push the boundaries a little bit more, where do you go?" In Reeve's
case, breakaway republics in the Caucuses and disputed territories in
Africa and Asia.
There have been some fabulous traveller's tales
and encounters en route - from buying fake passports and drinking
snake's blood to finding a field full of abandoned missiles. Having a
camera was a double-edged sword, Reeve says; it got him incredible
access in some places, but also made others suspicious. He describes the
trips as a bit like going away with a few mates and making a video
diary - except few have such surreal moments as suddenly being in the
lift chatting with one president, or going fishing with another.
But
could anyone, without BBC credentials, really just go there? "Yes,
absolutely! Lots of places you can just wander in. You'd have to be the
sort of person who doesn't need a Thomson holiday rep to show you
around, sure. But you'd also find your money went a lot further."
And,
he says, the scenery is pretty special. "Azerbaijan, Armenia, Georgia,
the central highlands of Taiwan - they're stunning, the sort of stuff
that makes you go - [mimes jaw dropping]."
It should be stressed
that, having been to Mogadishu en route to Somaliland - "You're either
fine or you're killed" - Reeve may not have the same conception of a
dodgy place as the rest of us. He is also the veteran of trips through
central Asia for a previous series, Meet the Stans, and has paddled
through Borneo looking for Al-Qaida training camps while researching his
book on Bin Laden, The New Jackals - published in 1998 and which came
to belated international attention after September 11.

Reeve, who
started his career in the postroom at the Sunday Times and never got on
a plane until he was 19, says: "I love the fact that I've been able to
go to the last remaining outposts of the Soviet empire, the Stalinist
empire, remaining on earth, in Transnistria. And Somaliland was quite
inspirational ... what the locals have achieved there is extraordinary."
He watched Michael Palin when he was younger, "like everyone
else", and now clearly fancies a shot at his job. "Wouldn't it be
fantastic?" he sighs, staring dreamily into the distance.
Perhaps
he could already replicate the Palin effect by opening new areas to
travellers. "I love the idea that in 10 years Somaliland may have
international recognition, and people can go and see its fantastic
beaches. An acre wide, sand between your toes. I can see that happening
one day, yeah."
Reeve's tourist guide to places that don't exist
Somaliland
"There are decent hotels, and not just by my standard of sleeping in a
shithole. They'll arrange a guide and transportation for you.
Number-one attraction is the people - I know that sounds corny, but they
are inspirational. That aside, there's the rock paintings, the finest
Neolithic paintings in the whole of Africa. They've only recently been
discovered by a French archaeologist and no tourists go there to see
them. So for people who are lucky enough to go, you're seeing a totally
untouristy sight. You're driving through the African bush and you get to
a village, and you go and see these paintings that are thousands and
thousands of years old, and you just look at them in wonder.
"Even
on the way to them you'll see pre-Islamic burial sites, and you just
realise you're travelling through an ancient land which we really know
nothing about now. The views are fantastic, and you've got the sea:
coral, mangrove, paradise islands just off the coast."
· Fly with Daallo airlines from Kenya or Djibouti.
Taiwan
"A fantastic tourist destination so long as there's no war with China,
which admittedly will cause a few problems ... Because the Taiwanese
saw themselves as China's natural rulers, they have been obsessed with
preserving the heritage. The Chinese have knocked a lot of things down;
if you travel round China, you're seeing megalopolises. In Taiwan you'll
see the authentic temples that have disappeared from the mainland. The
landscape is lush, and you've got history and architecture there as
well."
· KLM fly to Taipei via Amsterdam and Bangkok.
Georgia's breakaway republics
"Georgia does have a lot of tourist sights: mountains, monasteries,
skiing in winter, lakeside beaches in the summer. It's the birthplace of
Stalin; you've got Stalin's museum, where you can go and do what I did
and sit on his personal toilet when the guards aren't looking, and
imagine Stalin's bottom gracing this seat of power and privilege.
"In
South Ossetia
admittedly, there isn't an awful lot to see. But you will get a South
Ossetian stamp in your passport. And some ex-Soviet stuff - well, a lot
of it is almost still Soviet.
"
Ajaria has been
brought back into the Georgian fold. There are health resorts on the
Black Sea; it was a destination for Soviet holidaymakers, and has a
great climate in the summer. It's not going to be Club Tropicana, right?
"I'd love to tell you more about
Abkhazia but
the day before we were due to go, they said we're not going to let you
in because we've had some internal warfare in our government. But I'm
told it's beautiful. Some say it was the home of the Golden Fleece, and
the original garden of Eden."
· Fly to Tblisi via
Amsterdam with bmi and KLM. An overnight train to Ajaria costs about
£6. South Ossetia and Abkhasia are best visited from Russia.
Transnistria
"You could probably get here for a long weekend. From Chisinau, the
Moldovan capital, you can just get a bus or a taxi to Transnistria for
the price of a bag of chips. If you're on the bus, just sit at the back
and keep quiet. But even being stopped by the Transnistria immigration
officials is going to be a fun experience; if you're the sort of person
who's prepared to go there then you want that sort of thing."
· Malev Hungarian Airlines fly to Chisinau via Budapest.
Nagorno-Karabakh
"I would caution about going here because morally the situation is
very questionable - although it's a very beautiful place. "
· Entry via Armenia.
· The UK Foreign Office
advises against travel to Somaliland, South Ossetia, Abkhazia,
Nagorno-Karabakh, and advises caution in Transnistria, although tensions
have recently eased in Ajaria. In addition, the UK has no diplomatic
relations with Taiwan.
Reeve's top tips
* In these countries $5 goes a long way.
* If you want to see something, you might find there are "special entrance fees" that will get you in.
* You probably need a visa - but the rules are fairly flexible; you aren't going to Sweden.
·
Simon Reeve's new 5-part series, Holidays in the Danger Zone: Places
that Don't Exist, begins Wednesday May 4 on BBC2 at 7.30pm.